The proposed route is on the South Face of the Hand, climbing the green, pebbled streak forty feet right of the first pitch of Rock Atrocity. The climb will end at 75 feet over a finishing bulge and looks to be a very sustained power-endurance climbing on small holds up overhanging rock.
The climb begins with a hard boulder-problem start moving right to shallow pockets and pebbles in a groove-like feature, then goes straight up the green streak on pebbles and crimps to a finishing mini-bulge. The climb is continuously overhanging and difficult with little opportunity to rest, save a nice stance before the finishing bulge. The rock is well-featured with small holds throughout, solid, and visually appealing. Applicant estimates a very hard opening boulder problem to continuously difficult moves in the streak/rib to sustained 5.12+ up high.
There is no safe way to rig a toprope for this climb. The top of this pitch sits eighty feet below and forty feet to the side from the nearest anchor, on the summit of the Hand Flatiron. Even if there were was a way to build a natural anchor for this climb in the scoop directly above it, the overhanging wall below provides no natural protection and the climber would swing violently into the ascending slab behind the route. At present, it is too dangerous to work the moves; however, it is possible to closely inspect the route from the nearby slab and see that the quality of the stone is excellent and that there are positive holds for the entire pitch.
The only way to approach this a climb is to install an anchor directly above the line, halfway up the Hand’s south face, and to use three or more directional bolts (ideally sited where one will end up clipping anyway) to sort out the moves and the best line. The total estimated bolt count will be eight bolts to double-bolt anchors.
The staging area will be the same as for Power Bulge/Back in Slacks/Rock Atrocity, an established, flat staging area directly below the formation and with no vegetation. There is no possibility for natural protection, and the applicant proposes using all-stainless half-inch hardware.
FHRC Overview of the application: Application withdrawn.