New Fixed Anchor Atop Bidoigt
Dinosaur Mountain, Der Freischutz
Application date: 6/24/08
Information from the applicant:
The proposed route anchors would be atop the existing climb Bidoigt, on the west face of Der Freischutz, Dinosaur Mountain. This is an existing mixed-protection (two bolts, plus small gear) lead immediately left of the popular 5.11 Drugs, and goes at 5.10a.
At present, the only sport lowering/rappel anchor on this part of Der Freischutz is atop Drugs, about 15 feet right of Bidoigt and lower than the finish to Bidoigt — too far to the side and too low to be of use Bidoigt. So, when you complete Bidoigt, you have to top out the formation and seek natural-protection anchors (the best, most reliable option is a summit horn, about 50 feet back and that often has in situ slings; there are some less-reliable natural-gear options closer to the top of Bidoigt), bring up your second, then descend off the summit horn or down-climb to the Drugs anchors and then rappel.
As Dinosaur is known for its sport/cragging, there is precedent for having convenient lower-off anchors. The proposed anchors would be sited high enough that you still have to complete the lead, having no effect on the character of the traditionally protected climbing on Bidoigt’s upper third.
FHRC Overview of the application: Approved
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Approved
Please accept this application.
I vote yes
Fun route in need of Anchors.
Yes, anchors needed!
Please accept this as it is needed
Yes, anchors are good
yes on these anchors
separate sport climbs, seperate anchors. Seems reasonable.
Yes, separate anchors are needed. It is quite difficult to get over to the anchors on Drugs.
Most place gear on upper section anyway, so should have necessary gear and know-how to set up good anchors (double tunnel thread, etc) to be able to top-rope or bring up second. No.
Safety when lowering / rappeling is very important. Yes for anchors.