Pen 15, 5.12a

The Slab, West Face
Application date: 6/15/09

Route Information Since Installation
Nine bolts to a double-bolt anchor.

Information from the applicant:
The proposed route (65 feet) is on the West Face of the Slab and starts approximately 40 feet right of Whipping Post on the very overhanging west face. Application this cycle is for pitch 1 of a proposed two-pitch route.

Pitch one has been redpointed on toprope at 5.12-. The opening sequence stands up into a long undercling arch before moving left, directly out a boulder problem through the overhanging band. Easier climbing leads up and right to the large ledge, above which the climber engages more boulder-problem cruxes interspersed with giant jugs on the overhanging wall to a finishing point at the midway ledge on the wall.

The rock quality is excellent throughout, with some loose rock that needs to be removed from the two ledges (lower ledge and midway). The route will require 7 or 8 bolts on this first pitch, with no opportunity for reliable natural gear. This is a physical, very overhanging addition to this back (west) side of the Slab, and the first line that has been tried/freed on this major part of the wall. Having the first pitch in will add another quality 5.12- to the cliff, as well as provide much-needed access to the upper headwall, which will hold more difficult climbs in the future. This route does not compromise the climbing on any existing lines. The staging area is a flat piece of ground below the west face, along the approach trail up to Undertow/Sweet Niblets.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Approved