New 5.13c, Dinosaur Rock, North Face

Dinosaur Rock, North Face
Application date: 6/15/09

Information from the applicant:
The proposed route (120 feet) is on the North Face of Dinosaur Rock, taking the major line of strength from the toe of the wall to the summit of the formation. The applicant has spent one day on the route, trying it on toprope, but gave up due to the severely overhanging nature of the wall creating an injurious, nearly lethal (tree-branch-impalement) swing off the climb.

During this exploratory session, the applicant climbed the middle third of the route, from the lip of the big roof halfway up the headwall, at 5.12-, and was able, hanging on the rope, to inspect the rest of the line and to ascertain that it is possible as a free climb.

The route will begin on the first two bolts of Milk Bone to the rounded boss ledge. From there, it moves right up the double-overhanging, right-leaning corner for 30 feet (estimated: 5.12+), under the roof band. Applicant, hanging on the rope, was able to see a solid set of holds leading out and over the lip at V7/8 (5.13/13+) to better pocket-holes, from where he freed the next 40 feet at 5.12-. Stepping right into the scoop high on the headwall, the route will continue in the black streak (featured, with small holds) that runs straight down from the apex of the wall, finishing at double-bolt anchors just left of the point. The estimated difficulty on this upper section is 5.12+/13-.

The climb will be an endurance undertaking, given that it probably overhangs 40 feet in 120. Some loose rock will need to be removed on the overhanging corner to make the climb safe. Applicant proposes installing top anchors and 5 or 6 directional bolts (using removable Triplex bolts) to be able to safely try the line on toprope, clean the holds, and ascertain the best and safest line of ascent. Once that’s clear, he’ll install the rest of the hardware (total clips, likely 14, including the first two on Milk Bone) and attempt a lead.

The route offers wildly sustained, overhanging climbing on one of Dinosaur Mountain’s major features. It will be a modern testpiece, given its “rope-stretching” length, and a good endurance undertaking for hotter weather. The staging area will be the same as for Milk Bone, a platform in the trees just off the Mallory Cave Trail. There is no possibility for reliable natural protection, and the applicant proposes using all-stainless half-inch hardware.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Pending