The Shaft, 5.12b
Dinosaur Rock, North Face
Application date: 6/15/09
Information from the applicant:
The proposed route (90 feet) is on the North Face of Dinosaur Rock and starts 40 feet down and to climber’s left of the existing route Milk Bone (the first climb approved on the formation). It shares its start with the existing toprope Patience Face but where the latter climb moves right, The Shaft goes straight up on an extruded tufa-like feature.
The route has been red-pointed on top-rope and thoroughly inspected for best choice of protection. The route offers only one marginal C3 placement, used as a TR directional, in friable rock down low, with no other traditional/natural gear placements, and it is recommended that bolts/hangers be used for protection. The proposal is to use 9 or 10 stainless-steel half-inch bolts plus a 2-bolt anchor. The accompanying photo indicates bolt locations.
The route starts with a 5.11/11+ sequence to cross a hanging flake into the groove, then climbs more 5.11/11+ climbing up the groove, over a small roof, and up a clean face to a no-hands rest (where Patience Face moves right). The upper half of the climb engages the tufa via gymnastic movement (5.12) on large, sloping holds on overhanging rock, finishing via easier face climbing (5.10/11) toward the top of the wall. The rock quality is excellent, and only brushing was needed to make the route safe and clean.
The route offers shady 5.12 climbing on perfect stone without compromising any existing routes or adding impact to the crag base – it’s directly off the Mallory Cave Trail on a rock approved for new routes, and will share the staging area with Milk Bone, already approved.
FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Approved