Pretty in Pinkler, 5.11c
Dinosaur Rock, North Face
Application date: 6/15/09
Information from the applicant:
The proposed route (60 feet) is on lower left side (east) of the North Face of the Dinosaur Rock, climbing grey-green stone to the apex of a small pillar formation on that part of the face. The crux is turning the lip of a small bowl at one-third height, but the route is sustained throughout, and never easier than 5.10.
The route has been redpointed on toprope and thoroughly inspected for best choice of protection. The route offers zero traditional/natural gear placements and it is recommended that bolts/hangers be used for protection. The proposal is to use circa 7 stainless-steel half-inch bolts plus a 2-bolt anchor. The anchor will likely go at the point of the pillar, but if the rock there proves to be too hollow, it will need to be situated either above the ledge formed by the pillar (for rope drag) or slightly lower on the pillar horn itself, possibly a hair to climber’s right. The accompanying photo indicates bolt locations.
The route starts out off a small block/ledge and jumps right into sustained crimping, largely on solid incuts. The first two or three bolts will need to be spaced closely here, to protect against ledge fall. The route then moves slightly right into a bowl and encounters the crux, getting up and over the bowl’s lip. From there, sustained 5.10+/11- climbing takes you on wavy stone to the top of the pillar. The rock quality is excellent in general, and only brushing was needed to make the route safe and clean.
The route offers sustained 5.11 without compromising any existing routes or adding impact to the crag base – it’s directly above the same staging area as the new route Milk Bone and the applied-for route The Shaft, directly off Mallory Cave trail.
FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Approved