Vamos Las Chicas

Route Name: Vamos Las Chicas

Rock Formation: The Maiden

Number of bolts to be placed:  23 lead bolts, and two 2 bolt anchors. The third pitch will share the existing Maiden Voyage anchor.


Route Difficulty: 5.13

 

 

 Route Description:

The proposed new route follows the natural features of this impressive, overhanging face in three pitches.   There  will be 4 bolts on the first pitch, plus two bolts for the anchor, which will be above the Kor-Dalke route.

We will place 11 bolts on the second pitch, plus two anchor bolts above where the Kor-Dalke route traverses across the wall to the east. The third pitch will require  8 bolts until the point where it crosses the Made In Time route (5.14c), so there is no need to place any anchor bolts at the top. We will do our best to place natural protection whenever possible rather than placing a bolt in order to respect the ethics and aesthetics of this beautiful place.

 

The name, “Vamos Las Chicas” means, “Let’s go girls” in Spanish, which fits in with the Spanish theme of the neighboring route, “Hasta La Hueco”.

 

 

A description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation, including the number of routes, route names, route grade, type, and approximate distance between routes (a photocopy or diagram of the existing route(s) is also required):

On the South face of the Maiden, the routes trending from left (uphill) to right (downhill) are: 1. Gates of Galas (5.10d R/X trad); 2. A few yards east and downhill is Gates of Delirium (5.11c sport); 3. Maiden Voyage (5.12b sport), starts above the Crows Nest; 4. The subject route (Vamos Las Chicas) proposal, 5. 13 Sport; 5. Kor-Dalke, starts just a bit right of Vamos Las Chicas, trad Aid (A3) or free at 5.12 R; 6. Hasta La Hueco, 3 pitches, 5.13b sport; 7. South Face, 5.8R trad, 3 pitches; 8. Belladonna, 5.11a X trad: 5.9. Southern Seas, 5.11b trad top rope; 10. Heart of the Sunrise, 2 pitches, 5.11a sport; 11. South Crack, 5.11b/c trad

 

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.  

The approach starts from the South Mesa Trailhead.   Follow the Mesa Trail north to the Shadow Canyon connector, which is directly under the Maiden.  At the water trough, turn left (uphill) and follow the Shadow Canyon connector SW for a hundred yards. Turn right from the main trail at a thin path that leads to a quarry. Walk through the quarry to the north and follow an old quarry road. After maybe 200 yards, the road ends and follow the steep climbers trail uphill to the west (marked by cairns) to the base of the east ridge. From there, follow the path uphill along the south face, about 50 feet farther up the hill from the base of Hasta La Hueco.

the spot where you cut off for the old Quarry:

 

 

 

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.  Include photographs of the descent.):

 If doing only the first two pitches, the descent entails rappelling the route using the new anchors. If the party completes the third pitch, two rappels west down the standard Maiden rap route is recommended. Then hike out the same way as the approach.

 

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion.  Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The base of the route is next to a large tree with boulders  and compact soil on the ground.

staging area:

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

The majority of the reconnaissance work has been done on the first two pitches, but the last pitch requires bolting before free climbing.

Has the route been top roped?  Is there loose rock?  Is it extremely overhanging?

 We have top roped the first pitch and sections of the 2nd and third pitches, but without having the ability to place at least a few bolts, it was not possible to climb the entire route! However, there is definitely a feasible looking line of holds that follow across the obvious  weakness in the middle of this amazingly overhanging face.               

  Pitch 1:

Location of Pitch 2 anchor:

Pitch 3:

We plan to place 4 bolts on the first pitch, but it will also require a few additional pieces of gear. The proposed route WILL NOT interfere with the existing Kor-Dalke route on either the first or second pitches where they cross. Vamos Las Chicas is a distinctly different line that follows up the middle of this amazing South Face of the Maiden.

Any additional notes:

Note from the FHRC: This updated version of this route will only cross the Kor-Dalke in two places.  No bolts will be added near these crossings.

2 replies
  1. Miguel
    Miguel says:

    Looks awesome! I vote yes.

    Please consider changing the name to “¡Vamos Chicas!” or “Vamos Chicas” – a better translation of “Let’s Go Girls”

    Although to be extra nit-picky, “Hasta La Hueco” is also grammatically incorrect…so maybe keep the name as is to stay on theme 😉

    Reply

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