Der Spitzelhorn, 5.13d/14a
Dinosaur Mountain, Der Freischutz
Application date: 3/15/09
Information from the applicant:
The proposed route is on the severely overhanging northwest arête of the Der Freischutz flatiron on Dinosour Moutnain, approximately 15 feet left of the existing route Bidoigt. The route ascends a stunning wave-like arete, offering challenging moves on one of the most unique features in the Flatirons.
Length: Approximately 55 feet.
Name: Der Spitzelhorn
Protection: 6 bolts plus a two-bolt anchor
All moves have been freed on toprope and the line has, over the course of three days of effort, been thoroughly inspected for best choice of protection. Given the severe angle of the climb (30- 45 degrees on the upper 25 feet) and lack of directional gear placements, it is extremely difficult to work this climb on toprope. However, the applicant has linked up to and into the crux before taking the big pendulum swing off, and was then able to pull back on and link the top crux moves separately. Given the extreme difficulty of the route and the big (20- to 30-foot) swing if you fall, this is as close to free as the line will be until the hardware is installed. There is no doubt it goes as a free climb, albeit a tough one.
The route offers no traditional/natural gear placements and it is recommended that bolts/hangers be used for protection. Bolt locations have been marked with white chalk (~1-inch circles). The proposal is to use 6 bolts plus a 2-bolt anchor. Stainless-steel ½” bolts will be used on the entire climb. See attached photo for picture of the route with bolt placements.
The route begins with three bolts of 5.9 face climbing up an inset corner on good stone. After the third bolt, the angle gradually steepens, with continuous 5.11 and 5.12 climbing to a brief shake at the 5th bolt, at the base of the “horn” feature. From here, proceed through a strenuous series of crimpers with your left hand while grabbing the arête with your right. The crux is at the sixth bolt, involving a big move to gain the summit jugs, and to clip the anchors.
The rock quality is excellent in general, and only brushing was needed to make the route safe and clean.
The route offers increasingly difficult, outstanding climbing on a truly unique feature. It does not compromise any existing routes or add any additional impact to the crag base. The route is approached via the same approach trail used to access the Hand (Power Bulge, Back in Slacks, etc.) and Der Freischutz (Drugs, Bidoigt, etc.), among other climbs in the area. The staging area is on the same flat rock ledge used for Bidoigt and Drugs.
FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Approved
I am in favor of the fixed hardware proposal pertaining to the proposed new route “Der Spitzelhorn” on Der Freischutz.
I have hiked up and looked at “Der Spitzelhorn”. The route is an independet line on quality rock, and looks to be a great addition to an amazing climbing area! I vote yes on this application.