Milk Bone, 5.13a

/in , /by

Dinosaur Rock, North Face
Application date: 3/15/09

Route Information Since Installation
Four bolts to a double-bolt anchor

Information from the applicant:
The proposed route is on the North Face of Dinosaur Rock and climbs an extruded, tufa-like feature in the middle of the wall. The climb starts with 30 feet of moderate climbing to a ledge below a small roof, then is consistently overhanging for 70 more feet, to the lip of the wall, where the overhanging rock meets the slab of the east face. Total length is 30 meters.

Length:            100 feet
Name:              Milk Bone
Rating:                        5.12+/13-
Protection: 8 bolts plus a two-bolt anchor

The route has been red-pointed (C. Weidner, M. Samet, B. Scott) on toprope and thoroughly inspected for best choice of protection.  The route does not offer traditional/natural gear placements and it is recommended that bolts/hangers be used for protection. Bolt locations were marked with white chalk (~1-inch circles).  The proposal is to use 8 bolts plus a 2-bolt anchor. The accompanying photo indicates bolt locations. First ascentionist wishes use ½-inch stainless-steel hardware, for the protection bolts and the anchors.

Route Description:
The route starts out with 30 feet of 5.9 to a sloping ledge. From there, sustained 5.12/12+ (with a crux negotiating the lip of the roof), with only a couple of minor rests, follows the tufa to an upper headwall, and a final 5.11 roof.

The rock quality is good low and will only get cleaner, and is excellent above the ledge all the way to the top.

The route offers sustained, outstanding climbing on a tufa feature to rival European limestone and that is completely unique in the Flatirons. The staging area is immediately off the Mallory Cave Trail, at a flat balcony in the trees, and this route will open up terrain on one of the major new walls of interest in the Flatirons. The wall’s shady aspect also makes it a good summer venue, when other places in Boulder are often too hot.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Approved

PUBLIC COMMENTS:

I am in favor of the fixed hardware proposal pertaining to the proposed new route “Milk Bone” on Dinosaur Rock.

I have hiked up and looked at “Milkbone”.  The route is an independet line on quality rock, and looks to be a great addition to an amazing climbing area!  I vote yes on this application.

I support the bolting of Milk Bone on the North Face of Dinosaur Rock as specified in the application.  I am very familiar with this formation after top roping a line to the left and can vouch for the high quality of climbing and rock on this section of the cliff.  It is exciting to finally see established routes going up on this outstanding formation.