Full Sweep

Route Name: Full Sweep

Rock Formation: “The Broom” Part of the Shanahan Crags

 

Number of bolts to be placed:  7 lead bolts, 2 bolt anchor


Route Difficulty: 5.12a

 

 

 Route Description:

This is a short, but very high quality route right up the center of the wall.  Continuously difficult climbing leads past 7 bolts to the anchor.  The grade is around 5.12a.

We called the wall “The Broom” after a small broom we found on the summit of the formation.  The route is named Full Sweep because it climbs up the center of the tallest part of the “Broom.”

 

A description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation, including the number of routes, route names, route grade, type, and approximate distance between routes (a photocopy or diagram of the existing route(s) is also required):

Most of the existing routes at the Shanahan crags are on the South face of the Central crag.  This formation is a South facing wall just North of the summit of the Central crag.  There are no documented routes here yet, except two trad routes up the east face of the eastern part of the North Shanahan crag.

 

 

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.  

There are many ways to reach this crag.  Many have seen this wall along their descent from the East Face of the Central Crag, as the walk off trail passes under it.  The best way to access this climb is from the North Fork of the Shanahan Ridge trail.   When you reach The Slab, hang a left and follow a climber trail South.  You can then choose to go up one of two gullies, the second gully is probably the easiest. This face is near the top of the gully and facing South.

 

 



 

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.  Include photographs of the descent.):

Descent from the climb is to lower back to the staging area and hiking out on the same trail as the approach.  

 

Staging area:

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion.  Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The staging area is mostly flat with rocks and compact soil.

 

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

All reconnaissance is complete. 

Has the route been top roped?  Is there loose rock?  Is it extremely overhanging?

The route is clean and free of loose rock and has been toproped at the grade of 5.12a

 

Any additional notes:

none

2 replies
  1. Adam Block
    Adam Block says:

    Looks like great sunny rock. Would be nice to have some close-by ‘back ups’ for crowded South Shanahan days. I say yes!

    Reply

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