Hell Freezes Over
Hell Freezes Over (pitch one: 10a; pitch two: 12a); FA: Chris Archer, Sarah Spaulding, Alan Higham, Nick Archer, 2004: This is the leftmost of two quality sport climbs on the south face of the Red Devil. Begin at the obvious switchback staging area below the first pitch, along the climber’s-access trail to The Box, Back Porch, etc. The first pitch is 95 feet and has 11 bolts, with the crux on the smooth lower slab (can be done at about 5.9 by stepping slightly right). Belay at or descend from double bolts. The crux second pitch starts off the big ledge and climbs past four bolts on the overhanging scoop to arête, with tough lock-offs to incut crimpers; finish far left at a double-bolt and chain anchor. You can rap the route, or scramble off left (west) from the ledge below the second pitch. Great position and views of Boulder!